What Is a Marquise Diamond?
A marquise diamond is an elongated cut with two gently curved sides that meet at two pointed ends, giving it a long, narrow, boat-like outline. The shape is also called a navette, French for "little boat." Because its weight is spread along its length rather than hidden in depth, a marquise faces up larger than most other cuts of the same carat weight, and its points make a hand look longer and more slender.
That is the whole definition. Here is where the shape comes from, the one optical quirk to check before you buy, how it compares to an oval, and how it differs from our own signature Dutch Marquise.
The shape, exactly
A marquise is an elongated oval pulled to a point at each end. Its two long sides curve outward in a gentle arc, its two tips come to a sharp point, and the widest part sits in the middle. That curved outline is the thing to fix in your mind, because it is what separates a marquise from the angular cuts it is often confused with.
Most marquise diamonds are cut as brilliants, with 56 to 58 facets arranged for sparkle, the same facet family as a round brilliant, just stretched into the pointed silhouette. The result is a stone that flashes with plenty of light while covering more of the finger than a compact cut of equal weight.
Where the name comes from
A marquise is a rank of French nobility, just below a duke, and that is a dinner-party fact worth keeping: the traditional story ties the cut to the court of King Louis XV in 18th-century France, said to be shaped to echo the smile of his companion, the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether the legend is literally true or not, the name stuck, and "marquise" has meant this pointed, elongated shape ever since.
The plainer name for it, navette, is the one cutters actually use, and it is the more honest description: a little boat, wide in the middle and tapered at both ends.
The bow-tie, and the ratio
Every elongated brilliant, the marquise included, can show a bow-tie: a shadow shaped like a bow tie that falls across the center of the stone when the facets do not bounce light back evenly. A faint one is normal and most stones have a trace of it. A dark, obvious bow-tie is a cutting fault, and it is the single most important thing to look for in a marquise. You cannot judge it from the paper; you judge it by looking at the actual stone face-up in normal light.
Ratio is the other lever. Length-to-width ratio describes how long the shape looks: a marquise around 1.85 to 2.10 reads as the classic, balanced silhouette. Lower than that looks short and wide; higher looks very slender. There is no correct number, only the look you want, but the ratio is printed on the grading report so you can shop for it deliberately. For a fuller walk-through of every cut's proportions, see our diamond shapes guide.
Marquise vs oval vs Dutch Marquise
Three elongated shapes get mixed up constantly. The difference is entirely in the ends and the sides.
| Shape | Sides | Ends |
| Marquise | Curved, bowing outward | Two sharp points |
| Oval | Curved, bowing outward | Both ends rounded, no points |
| Dutch Marquise | Straight and angular, not curved | Two sharp points |
So a marquise and an oval share the same curved sides; the marquise simply pulls the ends into points. A marquise and a Dutch Marquise share the same pointed ends; the difference is the sides. A true marquise curves; the Dutch Marquise, our signature cut, runs straight and angular, so its outline reads as an elongated hexagon rather than a boat. The names sound alike and the two are constantly confused, but on paper the grading report settles it: it describes the geometry, not the name.
What to check before you buy
Look at the bow-tie first, on the actual stone, face-up in normal light. A faint one is fine; a dark band across the middle is a cutting fault to walk away from.
Pick a ratio on purpose. Around 1.85 to 2.10 is the classic marquise look; decide whether you want it more slender or more full, then shop the number on the report.
Protect the points. The two tips are the most vulnerable part of any pointed cut, so choose a setting with prongs (a V-prong) that cover and shield each end. Diamond is a 10 on the Mohs scale, the hardest natural material there is, but a sharp point can still chip on a hard knock, and a good setting solves it.
Check symmetry. The two points should line up through the center and the widest part should sit dead center. A marquise whose points are off-axis looks subtly wrong on the hand.
Read the grading report and confirm the number on the lab's own site. A Lab Grown marquise carries the "LG" girdle inscription like any other Lab Grown Diamond, and it is graded by the same labs (IGI, GIA, GCAL) as a mined stone.
And the framing that matters most: choose a marquise because you love how it wears, the length it lends the hand, the vintage romance of the shape. A diamond is a love piece, something you keep and that comes to mean something, not an investment. If the long, pointed, light-catching look is what you want, few cuts do it better.
About the Author
Jeffrey Bais
Jeffrey Bais oversees jewelry production with precision and dedication. He ensures every piece meets the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship.
Browse by Category
Related Posts
Popular Posts
FAQ's
A marquise diamond is an elongated cut with two gently curved sides that meet at two pointed ends, giving it a long, narrow, boat-like outline. It is also called a navette. Because its weight is spread along its length, it faces up larger than most cuts of the same carat weight.
Because their weight is spread across a long face-up surface rather than hidden in depth. A marquise has one of the largest face-up areas per carat of any cut, and its elongated, pointed shape also makes the finger look longer and more slender.
The bow-tie is a shadow shaped like a bow tie that falls across the center of an elongated brilliant when its facets do not return light evenly. A faint bow-tie is normal, but a dark, obvious one is a cutting fault. Always judge it on the actual stone face-up, not from the report.
There is no single correct ratio, only the look you want. A length-to-width ratio around 1.85 to 2.10 gives the classic, balanced marquise silhouette. Lower reads short and wide, higher reads very slender. The ratio is printed on the grading report so you can choose it deliberately.
The sides. A true marquise has curved sides that bow outward, so its outline is a boat shape. The Dutch Marquise, our signature cut, has straight angular sides, so its outline reads as an elongated hexagon. Both share two pointed ends, which is why the names are confused, but the geometry on the grading report tells them apart.
Yes, if you want an elongated, vintage-romantic look that wears large for its weight. Choose a setting with V-prongs that shield the two points, pick a ratio you love, and check the bow-tie on the actual stone. A Lab Grown marquise is a real diamond, graded by the same labs and far less costly than a comparable mined stone.